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China, Chinese Language, Photography 2010

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On January 1st 2010, there was a buddhist concert in Xi’an. A popular Taiwanese singer came to give a performance in Xi’an’s auditorium. This singer is trying to popularize buddhist music by incorporating some elements from pop music.  She only sang during the last thirty minutes of the two-hour show. During the first hour and a half, various kinds of Buddhist music were played: monks hitting their gongs, children singing in chorus and orchestras playing traditional Chinese violin. After the show, some spectators complained that the Taiwanese singer had been lyp-synching because she sang over a recording, instead of with an orchestra. I personally believe she was genuine, because as she would move her microphone closer to her mouth and then back further again, one could hear some mild distortion in her voice… a small detail that can prove a lot!

请关闭手机
禁止摄像
禁止录音
禁止喧哗

A man is standing in front of the scene with a panel which reads:

Please turn off your cellphones
No Pictures
No Recording
Do not Talk

Security guards were located in strategic locations to make sure the directions were properly followed.

It was, however, allowed to take photos of the concert hall.

Outside, I found an interesting ad that, in its English version, doesn’t respect the “One China Principle”:

The centre for Ajison Noodle is located in Kumamoto Kyushu, Japan, and since 1968 over 500 noodle shops have been established in Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore, Taiwan and China.

“味千拉面” 是以日本九州熊本为中心,自1968年创设以来,到目前为止在日本,香港,新加坡,中国台湾大陆等地已拥有500余家的连锁店。

Usually, when Taiwan and China are referred to in the same sentence, they are always referred to as “Chinese Taiwan and the Mainland” or “Taiwan Province and Mainland China” or other variations… In the Chinese version, the distinction was made, but not in English… Is it the work of the “Japanese Devils” English translators?

On a bag of dog food you get the directions to feed your beloved “gestating bitch” or your “lactating bitch”. I’m not sure if the word “bitch” is still commonly used to indicate a female dog, but it surely looks awkward on a nutrition table.

I got the result of my standardized test of aptitude in Chinese (HSK)… and with great regret, I learned that I am still considered a BEGINNER (level 5). After one year and a half of intensive studies, in China, I am still a beginner… If I had gotten 1% more, I would have been able to move up to the intermediate level (I needed 262 points out of 400, but I got 258). I will have to try again in March in Montreal.

In my apartment, all the mirrors are too low; I always have to bend down to see my face. And yet I am not particularly tall and I don’t find the Xi’anese to be short either… I don’t know why all the mirrors are so low here…

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Photography X-Mas Photos

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In the Christmas Season, in downtown Xi’an, lights are everywhere: on fake trees, real trees, on buildings,…

These two pictures are not particularly spectacular, but they are the only ones I have of the lights downtown… my batteries went dead right after I took those two pics. Too bad, one particular scenery around the Bell Tower would have made for a very nice picture.

Of course, I could go back there and take those pictures of the beautiful night scene and post them here for you all to enjoy… but this is not an option, and unless you know what China (or any other chaotic country) is on rush hour, you might find it difficult to understand the reason. I was there on Christmas day. And what do the Chinese do on Christmas day in Xi’an? They go downtown, and they walk… So the place was packed with people. Getting on a bus packed to maximum capacity is possible, but undesirable; getting on a taxi is impossible and if, by any chance, there is finally one that stops near you, your place WILL be taken by someone else who thinks he wants the ride more than you, and that we are living in a jungle where the survival of the fittest is the only rule. On that day, it took us nearly two hours to get out of this place, at that pace it would have been faster to walk all the way home. Sorry, you won’t see photos of the beautiful sceneries from Downtown Xi’an on Christmas day.

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Celebrations Lonely Christmas

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Merry Christmas everybody…

Enjoy this holiday, especially if you are celebrating with your whole family, and not alone on the other side of the planet, like me!

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University On the Teacher’s Invitation

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Our grammar teacher invited the whole class to a dinner at a restaurant.

It was a good occasion to meet classmates and the teacher in a different context than University life.

The restaurant served Chinese as well as some Western food. There were no chopsticks, only forks and knives.

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Tourism Yulin, Shaanxi

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The topic of today’s article: the most “european” Chinese city, Yulin, in Shaanxi province. Well… not that European you might say, but actually, some places reminded me of Europe, for example the narrow alleys, the stone streets,…

In Yulin, there are a lot of temples.

Mother and son.

Mother and daughter.

卫生值周牌


This week, it is Xie Yanmei’s turn to clean up the alley.

Construction.

Open-air restaurant.

Undergoing renovations.

专修
平房 楼房 漏水

Specialty:

Single-story houses, multi-story buildings and water leakage.

On the forefront, a man in military fatigue talking on his phone; in the middle, an old man selling fruits and in the background, a moto-taxi driver waiting for a client.

He is reading an advertisement.

Armed with spiked batons, men in military uniform were patrolling the city, in lieu of policemen. — Don’t even think of snatching that purse!

***

Related Articles:

Sichuan (Szechuan; 四川) (A journey in Sichuan’s countryside and a quick stop-over in its capital, Chengdu)

Miscellaneous Pictures from Xi’an (Construction sites and more…)

Walking in Xi’an (Photos of Xi’an)

Russian Federation — Российская Федерация (Photos from the Fussian Federation: Moscow, St.-Petersburg)

Taking Pictures in Paris… (People in Paris)

Ottawa (Canada’s Capital City)

Buenos Aires, Argentina (The Capital City of Latin America)

Ushuaia (The Southernmost City in the World)

Punta Arenas (The Southernmost City in Chile)

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Animal Suffering , Stray Dogs Laoshu

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After Wiki, the little dog Ying and I found on a sidewalk in a garbage bag in April, who was infected by the parvovirus and died in my apartment on the same day, let me introduce to you Laoshu, another two month old puppy that was abandoned in a noodle box on a University campus. Nobody wanted him. Ying was determined not to let him die alone in his box in the cold, so she brought him to my apartment…

We went to the veterinary to check if he was healthy and to prepare his vaccines.

The problem is that he had been stuffed with food by all these young students who found him cute and thought he was hungry. His stomach was full of pieces of sausages, bread, cookies, anything you name it… all of which was dumped on the floor of my apartment, and a part of it on this operation table…

After a whole night trying to defecate what he had eaten during the day, a gigantic hemorrhoid came out of his ass! Actually, it was his intestine that came out. He had been trying so hard to take out what he could not take out, that all his efforts resulted in his intestine getting out of his anus.

Everything was put back in place the following day.

Which was a very painful process, without anaesthesia.

Now, Laoshu is safe and sound and in good health. He will be vaccinated next week. A tiny two-month old puppy, a mix of chiwawa and another grey dog; blue eyes, intelligent, gentle with a cuddly temper. I will be leaving China soon, so I cannot keep him. :-( Who wants to have him?

***

Related Articles:

Canine Parvovirosis (The story of Wiki, a stray dog abandoned in a garbage bag on the street).

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China, Islam Noodles, New Territory Style

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In Xi’an, there are many restaurants that claim to serve real Xinjiang food, but they are mostly owned by Chinese muslims of the Hui minority. Hui cuisine is different from the Uyghur’s (hereafter referred to as “the people from the New Territories/New-Territorians“, to avoid having my website blocked by the pesky Great Firewall which seems to automatically block any website containing any reference to this people…) Xinjiang means “New Frontier” or “New Territory” in Chinese, it is the name of a Chinese province located at the North Western part of China, it shares borders with Mongolia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Afghanistan and Pakistan. The Chinese language has two terms for this people: “the Weiwuer people: 维吾尔族” and “the people from the New Territory (New-Territorians): 新疆人”.

There is that one restaurant close to my apartment where they serve genuine food from the New Territories. They have great noodles, with great sauce and bread… oh good bread is so rare in China! Their food is great, the exotic ambiance is fabulous, but their service, let’s put it this way: sucks. They lie to their customers whenever a request is too troublesome to be fulfilled, for instance if you want noodles, but they want to sell off all their rice, they will tell you that they have no noodles anymore, and two minutes later you will see one of the staff eating noodles. They are harsh to their customers and act like real misers in front of money… but anyway, it’s basically the only place where you can taste one of the best foods in Xi’an, so I guess it’s the price to pay for good bread and noodles.

The restaurant is always full… of people. They are mostly family members of the owner. Sometimes you see customers, other fellow New Territorians, or even Han Chinese, who come to have a taste at some halal food (which is translated in Chinese as “清真食品” (clean and real food)).

Over a period of one year, I have been very few times to that restaurant. I had always been repelled by the complete lack of courtesy from the staff. But last week, I finally got some human touch from the family.

I was happily surprised when, after taking a picture right outside the restaurant, I was asked by the owner, and subsequently by everyone in the restaurant, to have their portrait taken. I therefore took a picture of each one of them, in front of the Shahada, the Muslim declaration of belief pictured above, behind the man. It is written in Arabic and means “There is no god but God and Muhammad is His prophet”.

I think they are all family members, but I could not make sure as we had no common language. Their Mandarin is even worse than mine! and they certainly don’t speak English. They speak Uyghur, a turkic language, and some of them speak Arabic as well.

She is, I believe, the wife of the owner of the restaurant. She is the one who manages the money… a very harsh and straight-forward woman. If you’re trying to pay your meal with a 100-yuan bill, she will bluntly ask you for smaller denominations. Seeing her smile on this picture is particularly moving for me.

On that day, when I ordered my food, she came with the noodles. I said “xie xie (thank you)” and she looked at me with a puzzled glare, as if it was the first time she heard the word. Then, I called her again and asked her for some “na’am” (bread), she came back with my na’am and I said “xie xie” again. She gave me the same suspicious look. Then, I called her a third time for one mutton kebab, and she came again to my table with the kebab, this time smiling and she said:

“PAKI! here’s your kebab!”… I thanked her and said in a mix of Mandarin, French, English and what I believe to be Arabic…

“Me… no Paki… Paki, no, no, no!”

Everytime I grow a beard, I am always asked if I am Pakistani. Han Chinese ask me… Indians ask me… Hui minority people ask me and now, this New Territorian also assumed I was Pakistani. She replied with a question, in her language:

“You’re not Paki?… Are you Turkish?”

No.

“Are you Kirghiz?”

No.

“Are you Kazakh?”

No. “I am from Jianada (Chinese for “Canada”)”.

“Jakarta?”

She then asked the other people in the restaurant if they knew that place called “Jakarta”…

“No, not Jakarta… KA-nada!”

Ah! Canada!

She followed with a question, which I naturally didn’t understand… I said “bu mingbai”, which is Chinese for “I don’t understand”, but she probably didn’t understand me either, it was like a dialogue of the deaf.

Then, some random customer turned over and translated to me what she had just said… in perfectly clear French!

“Elle demande: Comment vous appellez-vous?” (She is asking: “What’s your name?”).

Alex…

“Alex! isbdgo fsdif fafsdaf”. And she left.

I had not heard French spoken so clearly by a non native for a very long time. I was so amazed and happy that I went to his table to chat with him. It was my first conversation with a man from the New Territories. And it was very instructive.

Some of the cooks.

When I go to class every morning at 8 o’clock, I see this young guy peeling carrots and potatoes and preparing the meals for lunch. He looks very young and tired.

Last weekend was Eid al-Adha, the festival of sacrifice in which an animal, usually a sheep, is sacrified by Muslims.

The following day, I had the pictures printed and I gave them a copy of their portraits.

I hesitated before putting this picture on this article, because it sort of destroys its whole positive mood. But I think it is important to mention one of the reasons why there are racial tensions in China. The customer in the restaurant who spoke French to me (I did not take any photo of him) told me that he is often mistaken for a foreigner when he walks in Xi’an. Some people greet him in English, in a manner way too familiar to any expatriate in China: “HHHaallllo!”, and he is often asked which country he is from. He never replies that he is from the New Territories because, according to him, the Chinese are afraid of those people. He prefers to say that he is from Kyrgyzstan. New Territorians are almost always tagged by the Chinese (and not only by Hans) as thieves, bums and lazy students who get a free pass to higher education from the government. In that kind of environment, integration is very difficult, if not impossible. The whole concept of “Harmonious Society” of the current administration will have to be reconsidered…

***

Related posts:

Christ Hanzis (The belief in a Christian God through Chinese Characters).

Born-Again Christians (One Month with Evangelical Christians in a Chilean Church). [French and Spanish only]

Religion (A photo of a follower of a mysterious religion in Peru).

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Communism, History, Lenin, Mao, Marx, Politics Lil’ Red Books

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It all started here. In this bookstore. I found it on my way back from an old Taoist temple that I had visited earlier. The temple was located in a neighborhood where most buildings had been demolished to make way to the construction of new high rises. I was walking down the half-demolished street when I saw them… those old books from the old times that everyone seems to have forgotten, or wishes they could forget. Testaments from the time when China was effectively Communist, when it was ruled by no one else than Mao himself, the very founder of the People’s Republic. The big man.

She was selling those little red books, famous all over the world as an icon of  “Red China”. But what’s the big deal – you might think – those little red books can easily be found at any touristic area, all over China. But no. Not these ones. The books she was selling were genuine. Not cheap, flavorless imitations.

As an enthusiast of communist history and culture, I was in her bookstore like a kid in a candy store. She had all the books relevant to that era, with real annotations left inside by real people who were really from that time!

The owner of the bookstore and me had a long discussion about the Cultural Revolution and her own recollections of it. Then, I asked her if I could take a portrait of her. She accepted. I had the photo printed and I went back last Saturday to give it to her.

The first time I came to her bookstore, I bought several of her red books: 最新最高指示 (The Newest Supreme Instructions), 毛主席的五篇哲学著作 (Chairman Mao’s Five Philosophical Writings), 毛主席论无产阶级专政下继续革命 (Chairman Mao on the Dictatorship of the Proletariat under Ungoing Revolution) and 毛主席,马恩列斯语录 (Quotations from Chairman Mao, Marx, Engels, Lenin and Stalin).

This Saturday, I bought some more books. First, this 4-part anthology written by Lenin. These books were not studied by the common people, but rather by  Party officials as they would prepare themselves for their role as planifiers of the economy.

列宁选集 Lenin’s Selected Works.

Lenin, a noted polyglot, made his writings in Russian, but he would extensively quote German and French authors.

I also bought this thick brick, a bible-like 1400-page study Red Book 毛泽东选集 (Mao Zedong’s Selected Works).

When I opened this book, I finally understood the origin of all the agitation around that guy called “Bai Qiuen”. On page 620, a short article (written by Mao, as all the articles in the book) is titled “In Memory of Bai Qiuen”. It tells the life of the Canadian communist doctor who went to China in the 1930s to support Mao’s Army during the wars against the Japanese invadors and the Kuomintang. Nearly all Chinese know about this story, which became required reading in elementary school. In China, when you say that you are from Canada, you will always be told about this Bai Qiuen. I had actually never heard of him until I came to China. His real name is Norman Bethune, he was born in the province of Ontario. He was a talented physician and inventor. He studied medicine at University of Toronto and worked for a time at Royal Victoria Hospital in Montreal. He came to China in 1938 and died in November 12, 1939 of blood poisoning after a cut he received while performing a surgery, during the second Sino-Japanese war. He is buried in the Revolutionary Martyrs’ Cemetery in Shijiazhuang, Hebei.

I also bought this book. Same thing, “Mao Zedong’s Selected Works”, but an earlier version published in four installments the 1950s.

Not only are the four books written in traditional characters, but also from top to bottom and right to left. This is the traditional way in which Chinese texts used to be written. Today, in Mainland China, very few books (if any) are written this way. Even imports from Taiwan (where some books are still written in this traditional way), are converted to the official simplified script (simplified characters, written horizontally from left to right).

Inside the book, I found this old propaganda illustration, exactly in the style of art that I like: “Socialist Realism”.  It depicts workers on their way to the construction site up in the mountains. The traditional characters used for the slogan here attest of the age of this piece, probably prior to 1956. It goes: “學習紅軍長征的戰鬥精神,征服自然,建設我們的祖國!” (Let’s learn from the wartime spirit of the Red Army, let’s conquer nature and build our motherland!).

Here is a very famous article titled “Serving the people”. The first owner of this book seemed to have studied it very seriously. He underlined some sentences, among them this passage:

因为我們是为人民服务的,所以,我們如果有缺点,就不怕别人批評指出。不管是什么人,誰向我們指出都行。只要你說得对,我們就改正。你說的办法对人民有好处,我們就照你的办。

Because we are here to serve the people, if it turns out we have any faults, we will not fear any criticism. It doesn’t matter who makes the criticism. The only thing that matters is that if you are right, we will change. If your solution is good for the people, we will use it.

Interesting passage. To me, it means one thing: when the Communists took power, they were well intentioned. They came with their utopian views, and they truly believed they were there for the people. They really did accept criticism in China at some point of the Revolution. In the 1950s the communist party launched the “Hundred Flowers Campaign”, a political campaign that enabled the people to criticize the regime… but it only lasted one year after which that same Party cracked down on those who voiced criticism. From that moment on, the Party would never accept further criticism from the people.

This book is a collection of quotations from chairman Mao, Marx, Engels, Lenin and Stalin.

On the first page, as in all the other books mentioned above, you have the famous communist slogan: 全世界无产者,联合起来!”Workers of the world, Unite!”

On the second page, you have the title, on the third page (pictured above), you have a transparent protective page.

On the fourth page, there is Chairman Mao’s portrait.

On pages 5 to 8, you have the portraits of the masterminds of communism. Here, Karl Marx.

Engels.

Lenin.

Stalin. All these five portraits used to be displayed on Tian’anmen Square. Now, only Mao’s portrait remains.

On page 9, you have a message written by Mao Zedong. In his spare time, he would enjoy writting calligraphy. The message says: 學習馬列主義 – 毛泽东 (Study Marxist-Leninism – Mao Zedong).

Pages 10 and 11 were mysteriously cut off… on page 12, there is the table of contents.

Another red book. Above, the portrait of Chairman Mao… below… probably another portrait, but it was cut off, again. According to the woman who sold me this book, the portrait below was that of Lin Biao, former number 2 of the Party. Originally, Mao chose Lin Biao as his own successor… until he changed his mind and (allegedly) had him killed in 1971… He then ordered everyone to cut off his portrait from their red book. These books represent an everlasting reminder of the madness that plagued China during the ten years of the Cultural Revolution, when one single man had complete power over the fate of hundreds of millions of people. One man, elevated to the status of God, was worshipped and blindly listened to.

Consulting these books is really fascinating. Not only are they valuable historical documents, they also take you inside a crazy world in a most irrational time of folly and megalomania, where one can witness the creation of some sort of “religion”. A God was created, images of Him were made ubiquituous, His writings were spread all over the country and were compulsory reading for everyone. People would worship Him, listen to Him, follow Him… to death. And then, the God died and unlike other gods or prophets in History, after His death, the religion was ditched, forgotten, and became a symbol of national shame.

***

Related Articles:

P.R. China’s 60th Anniversary (An account of the 60th anniversary of foundation the People’s Republic of China as seen on Chinese TV)

Censored! (An insight into a censored Chinese edition of National Geographic)

History (Photos of communist relics from around the world: Russia, Romania, China)

Republic of Transdniestria (A visit of the break-away communist Moldovan Republic of Transdniestria, unrecognized as a country by the international community and disputed territory of Moldova).

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Winter First Snowfall of the Season

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On November 11th, Xi’an had its first snowfall of the season.

Last year, I had not seen snow in Xi’an before I left the city in the middle of December.

The Summer of 2008 was terribly hot, but in 2009, the sky was covered most of the Summer and we had mild temperatures.

The Winter of 2008 was chill, but not very cold. In 2009, I am feeling the same cold that I would feel in Montreal. This year, I have the feeling that the temperatures are much more comfortable than last year.

It seems that the people were unprepared for this snowfall. On this photo, two girls working at the Mall are trying to take the snow away from the entrance. In Montreal, they would have used shovels. But here, they are using a broom, a stick and bare hands to gather the snow.

A father playing with his son.

It fell about 5 inches of snow.

The scenery was beautiful. For the first time, I felt like home in Xi’an.

November 11 was also “Bachelor’s Day”, in China, and the government sent me this text-message on my cellphone:

^O^人和事物的存在,都
有两面性,天下的光棍虽
然孤独,但也有一个完美
的时刻:11月11日11时11
分11秒,光棍万岁。

^O^ People and things both
have two sides: although bachelors
are lonely, there is still a perfect
moment for them: November 11th, 11 o’clock, 11
minutes, 11 secondes, long live the bachelors.

Since the first years of Communist rule in China, November 15th was chosen as the day to “switch on” the central heating for nearly all apartments and public buildings in the country. People have no control over their own heater, they can neither turn it on or off. This year, because of the early arrival of Winter, the government decided to advance the day to switch on the heaters to November 11th.

When I was looking for an apartment to move in, I visited this one where I am currently living at. When I first came with a real-estate agent, I was so impressed by the spectacular view from the window at the 16th floor and by the great TV set in the living room, complete with a DVD player and speakers, that I overlooked a very serious detail… there was no freezer. Only after I signed the lease and I moved in did I realize my mistake. But now, thanks to the falling temperatures, I can use my balcony as a freezer and store all my perishables… as long as the outside temperature does not exceed 4°C!

The next day, the snow had almost completely melted.

The surprising fact about this snowfall is that… it was artificially induced by the government! Using a method called “cloud seeding“, 84 packages of silver iodide were fired up to the sky using rockets. This technique is commonly used in China, for example before important celebrations, the authorities clear up the sky to make sure the rain won’t spoil the party. This snowfall was unexpected, as the authorities failed to notify the population prior to carrying out the seedings, which caused some major problems in the affected cities, especially in Beijing, where the International Airport had several flights delayed.

Here is an article about the snowfall in Beijing: http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/cityguide/2009-11/04/content_8911812.htm

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Related Articles:

Miscellaneous Pictures from Xi’an (Porcelain Shops, Dangerous Intersections, Night Market, Workers, Construction Sites)

Strolling in Xi’an (Pictures of daily life in Xi’an: Mah Jong, Construction Sites, Photographers, Mao Portraits)

Window Shopper (Window-shopping monks in downtown Xi’an.)

Today’s China (Photos of Modern China)

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