Archive for the ‘Nationalism’ Category

Celebrations , China, Commemoration , Communism, H1N1, Nationalism, Xi'an News from China



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September has been a busy month. September 1st was the first day of class. I started level 4 of Chinese (out of 6 levels) and this semester, I noticed that the teachers are giving us more and more ideological (communist) or nationalistic (Chinese) examples to explain the meaning of new words. For example, in order to explain to us the meaning of the verb:

让步 (make concessions), the teacher used the following example: “Over the question of Taiwan and Tibet independence, we Chinese, must never make any concessions (让步) to foreigners!”

For the word: “recognize” (公认):
“We recognize (公认) president Mao as the greatest leader China has ever had!”

For the verb: “to interfere” (干涉):
“China will never accept foreign countries to interfere (干涉) in its interior affairs”.

Last July, riots sparked by racial tensions resulted in the death of hundreds of people. After the intervention of the police and the return to calm, according to some reports, some Uighur terrorists started to prick people with syringes, apparently as a way to attack people without attracting suspicion from the authorities. This method propagated into many cities in China, including Xi’an. On this picture, the suspect is not a Uighur as one would expect, but a Han (the ethnic majority). And she doesn’t target any minority in particular (but rather women and old people).

The poster of a suspect wanted by the police:

嫌疑人刻画:女,年龄: 30-40岁,
身高:160-165cm, 黑色长发
披肩或扎马辫,本地口音或普通话,
瓜子脸,体型较瘦,身挎大包,
单肩包或超市购物袋。
作案方式:在公交车上利用上下
车拥挤背包中针扎人。
侵害人群:妇女和老人。

Description of the suspect: Woman, between 30 and 40 years old,
Height: 160 to 165cm (5′3” to 5′5”), long, black hair.
Local accent, speaks Mandarin,
Oval face, carries a big bag,
A strap bag or a plastic bag.
Modus operandi: enters crowded buses
and uses the syringe in her back pack to prick people.
Targets: Women and Old People

September 18 was the anniversary of the Japanese invasion of China in 1933. On that day, anti-raid sirens from all over the country rang out during one minute. Some old people took advantage of that day to write hate messages on the walls with chalk, directed at the Japanese.

October 1st will be the 60th anniversary of communist rule in China. As it is written on this poster: “no pain, no gain”, indeed the first 30 years were quite harsh… The Chinese characters are written in their traditional form 我愛中華60年/我爱中华60年 (I love China, 60 years). I wonder why they used English for their design of this patriotic poster. Very few people in Xi’an can understand this message in English.

The entrance to the University.

To prevent an outbreak of H1N1, the body guards at the entrance of the campus take the body temperature of each person entering, using a contactless thermometer. Those who are discovered having a fever will be escorted to the district hospital where they will be quarantined. A police officer is present in the morning to make sure that all the procedures are properly followed. In order to leave the campus, one must have a special authorization from their program director. For those who live off campus, it is easy to obtain that authorization, however for those who live on campus, in the dormitory, it is much more difficult.

China, Libraries/Bookstores, NGO, Nationalism, Politics, Religion Summer School



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The summer camp that I attended last July, for some legal reasons, was not really a “summer camp” (even though it resembled a camp), but rather a “Summer School”. As Mister Lee, the organizer of the School, put it, this was a “Spiritual School”. A school in which Mr Lee, throughout a week-long program, tried to teach his young students some notions that are completely foreign to the current normal curricula for primary school and high school in the People’s Republic of China: critical thinking and self-fulfillment through civic education.

The first notion was probably the most complex and the one requiring most diplomacy from Mr Lee and his assistants to lecture about: development of critical thinking. In a country where all media are State-owned, it is easy to accept all the facts that are brought forward without using readily available sources on the Internet. Some very controversial taboos were addressed in the summer school. Some students were shocked to hear for the first time of their lives the questioning of the very foundations of their own education. For instance, one of the volunteers who came from Beijing, delivered a speech that questioned the One China Policy. This policy aims at preserving China’s territorial integrity as it was before the fall of the last dynasty in 1911 – however without Mongolia and some other lost territories. That is all the provinces included to what is called “China Proper” (Beijing, Shaanxi, Sichuan, Hunan, …), as well as provinces mostly populated by ethic minorities (Tibet, Xinjiang), Taiwan and the sorrounding Islands currently under the jurisdiction of the Republic Of China, the South China sea and some borders that are yet to be internationally recognised. His point was that China is a very huge and complex country and it would not be that bad if one of its provinces – if their respective populations were to agree – would separate from China and form their own independent country. Boom. This very statement had the effect of a bomb on the students. One of them, startled by what she had just heard said to Ying “听得不舒服” (this makes me uncomfortable). Of course, the purpose of this speech was not to make regional separatists out of these young students. There was no separatist in the room. The idea was to open the door to critical thinking. To teach the students how to be able to accept the possibility of an idea that goes against the biggest taboo currently in China, or at least, to make sure that these children would hear a different viewpoint for the first time in their lives, and then start building a free mind.

The second notion, individualism, was much less controversial at the political level, than the first notion, but nevertheless was still somewhat unsettling for family relationships. In China, there is a concept that makes children the “private properties” of their parents. Having a child is an investment for the future. A child must therefore have a successful career in order to get a high salary and help their parents when they retire. The first step to success is education. You have to study, everyday, from 8 a.m to 11p.m, you must go to school in the summer, in July and August, and then take English classes when time permits. But why in the world should a student work that hard at school? Or, the question as asked by Mr Lee: “WHO are you doing all this for? WHO do you work for? WHO do you study for?” To this question, many students answered that they wanted their parents to be proud of them. This is when Mr Lee asked them “What are YOUR dreams?”.

So the students, one by one, presented to the class their dreams.  Some of them dreamed of working in a big city and becoming rich, while some others dreamed of staying in the countryside and grow vegetables.

Some other students chose to talk about their past, their moving past, recalling a lost parent, the despair of life in poverty, while others perhaps leading a happier life chose to talk about their aspirations.

The first day of the program, the wake-up time was set to 6 a.m (and the day ended at 11 p.m!) Early in the morning, we climbed one of the hills around the town where the school was located. The course was steep, wet and muddy.

Once on the summit, the students would sing and read poems in an ambiance that resembled very much to Evangelist Christian summer camps in the USA where biblical verses are read in the nature. But in this case, there was nothing religious.

The second day, at the same time, we climbed a second hill. The soil was less muddy and the course less steep, so coming down was easier.

In passing, we met various farmers who climb and go down the hill every day without feeling tired!

Old but fit.

But 6 a.m really was too early to get up. The students and the volunteers were exhausted. A student complained about it, and then Mr Lee gave a demonstration of democracy to the students (did he plan it all?) So a proposition was put forward to modify the schedule by removing the early morning hill-climbing, moving the wake-up time one hour later and have the children read poems in the school playground instead of at the summit of a hill. After a heated debate, the vote was carried out and the result was very close: 20 yea: 19 nay for the modification of the schedule! Therefore, from that day on, there was no more hill climbing. By chance, the students were present in an odd number. Had the result of the vote come out as a tie, Mr Lee would have had to use his power of vote to break the tie, which might have been viewed by the children as an authoritarian move, and might have confused the students in their idea of a “perfect” democracy.

In all, there were 6 part-time volunteers, available for only one week; one full-time volunteer; Mr Lee and his wife. Each volunteer brought something different to the school. Ying and I brought the “foreign world”, two students from Guangdong (also known as “Canton”) taught singing, a philosopher from Beijing (whose name means “love for philosophy (爱哲)”) taught some fundamentals of democracy and philosophy, a teacher also from Canton, from an ethnic minority, showed  the students images from her native village. The full-time volunteer, a poet, helped Mr Lee in his enterprise and added his point of view to tackle some problems. On this picture, both Cantonese students are teaching how to use one’s voice to sing. The guys are separated from the girls.

Ying described her experience abroad in the USA.

“Westerners vs Chinese”

Westerner’s world view vs Chinese’s. The relationships between an individual and five different elements: (other people, family, objects, nature and God). In Westerners, according to Mr Lee’s assessment, the most important relationship, the one that encompasses everything, is between an individual and God, while in the Chinese, this relationship doesn’t exist, as shown in the diagrams (the dotted circle in the left diagram represents this relationship in Westerners). According to Mr Lee, what is lacking most in the Chinese, is spirituality, as practiced in the West. Mr Lee is an Evangelist Christian.

As the program was advancing, the presentation progressively grew more religious. Some movies were presented, many of them recounting the lives of great historical personalities (which also appeared to be Christians). Among them: Mother Theresa, Martin Luther King and Gandhi.

There was also a non-religious movie that was presented: the Wizard of Oz. At the last day of the camp, there would be a reenactment of some scenes from the movie made by the students. There was three teams of actors, each team would play the same scenes. The best actors in each team would be declared as the winners.

Here are some photos of the play.

The best actors, chosen by a secret vote.

At the end of the camp, a guestbook was put at the disposal of the students so that they could write down their thoughts. They could write about anything: their aspirations, their opinion on the camp, etc.

The camp was interrupted two times to receive book donations made by benefactors. The books that Ying donated arrived exactly on the last day!

The organization which organized the camp is above all an NGO whose objective is to build libraries in rural China. To date, they already have built 4 libraries in 3 Chinese provinces. This organization was founded by some intellectuals from Beijing. Mr Lee told me that the building of a library costs approximately 40000元 (USD 5800)  in equipment (computers, projector, …), in furniture and in other expenses (for example: notebooks). Then, you add 10000 to 20000元 (USD 1500 to 3000$)  annually on top of it for maintenance. This NGO is represented by 5 intellectuals, each of them unique in their approach, but all sharing one common view: the importance of civic education in China. This is not an organization with a political purpose, nor is it religious. If you would like to help this organization in any way, you can directly contact Mr Lee at the following address: liyingqiang@gmail.com

Architecture, Bribe, Communism, Corruption, Culture, Currencies, Economy, History, Independence, Languages, Lenin, Moldova, Nationalism, Russia, Statues, Tourism, Transdniestria, Visa, War Republic of Transdniestria



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I’ve been in Moldova five days already. An English journalist who has lived in the same apartment as I am living in, had been staying in Moldova only three days before he wrote an entire one-page article about this country. After five days of being here, I don’t feel I know enough to write this much about this country, therefore if I rely on my own experience, I guess his article must have been incomplete. Moldova is a country with a very complfex history, it is situated in the European continent, but it does not belong to the European Union. To enter this country you need to go through customs. Moldova uses as a currency the “leu” (plural: lei) and they are far from adopting the euro. In 2001, Moldova became the firfst European country to ever democratically elect a communist party. This country is, therefore, in theory communist. But was does it mean in reality? I guess one must have grown up in this country and seen the transition from the communist economy to the market one to really know. Five days are definitely not sufficient. But what I could say is that, on the surface, Chisinau really looks like a “capitalist” city, well converted to the market economy. Businesses and advertisements are ubiquitious. There still are however, some remnants of the communist era: old messages, apartment buildings, trolleybuses…

(Source: John Dutton; http://www.documentaire.com/caucasus/Transdniestria.html )

Here is the map of Moldova. This country declared its independence from USSR in 1991. Before becoming a SSR (Socialist Sovietic Republic inside USSR), Moldova was the region of a bigger country named Bessarabia, uniting Romania and Moldova. The language spoken in Moldova is Moldovan, but in fact, it is nothing else than Romanian with some differences in the pronounciation and in vocabulary. In the USSR, the central government adopted a politic of russification of Moldova. Many Russians moved to Moldova, which changed the demography of the country in the favor of the Russians. In 1991, when Moldova declared its independence, the russophone region located on the eastern bank of the Dniester River, Transdniestria, declared their independence from Moldova, which resulted in a war between both regions. With the help of the Russian army, Transdniestria won the war and… a country was born. Everything you need in order to get a country was present in Transdniestria: there was a government, a currency, a constitution, laws, armed forces, the police… everything was there except for… the international recognition. Transdniestria is not recognized by any foreign country, and for this reason, it does not appear on any map. The Moldovan government has no control over this area.

It has been a long time since I first got the idea of visiting Transdniestria, for its history, present and past. The website of the Canadian Government advises that no consular protection is provided to the Canadians visiting the breakaway Republic of Transdniestria, because Canada has no diplomatic relations with Transdniestria and Moldova does not have any control over that region. The government therefore advises to “avoid all travel” to that region. All the Romanian people in Bucarest to whom I have told I would visit Transdniestria all said to me the same thing: “don’t be stupid and don’t go there”. But in Chisinau, the Moldavians and the tourists I have met had another vision on the subject. The tourist with whom I am sharing my bedroom has visited many times Transdniestria without having any problems and my guide has crossed the border some 50 times without any problems neither. Knowing that I would regret it my whole life if I didn’t go to Transdniestria, I decided to go take the tour to Tiraspol, the capital city of Transdniestria, with the daughter of the owner of the apartment where I live. Here is what I saw:…

My guide, a tourist from New-Zealand and I went to the bus station in the center of Chisinau and we took a collective taxi that goes everyday to Tiraspol for 75 lei (7,50$). One hour after we left Chisinau, we arrived to the Transdniestrian border. In theory, visiting Transdniestria is free, but in practice, you have to pay if you are a foreigner. Actually you have to bribe the customs officers if you want to be allowed in. My guide, Natasha, knew what to do to get in. After having crossed the border some 50 times she knew the customs officers well and for her, the prices for each tourist that she brings was “only” 15 euros, instead of the habitual 50 euros. 15 euros a tourist, we were two tourists in the car, that gives 30 euros directly to the pocket of the customs officers. If you multiply this figure by the number of tourists who come everyday to Transdniestria and then by the number of days there are in a month, you get a fairly good salary for someone who lives in the poorest place in Europe! I was given this immigration card with the hour I got it written on the top right corner of it: 10:20. The visa was valid only for 4 hours.

And… here I am! In Transdniestria! The hammer and the sickle, the former flag of the Molvovan SSR, and a sign that says “MTR welcomes you to the capital city”. The official name of Transdniestria is MTR (Moldovan Transdniestrian Republic).

This is the main street in Tiraspol. Very wide.

The day I was there, there was some maintenance work going on on the street.

With very old machinery…

On the main square in the main street, Natasha explained to us the meaning of what we were seeing.

A tank on the main plaza. It was used in the Great Patriotic War, against the Nazi forces. (1941-1945).

A memorial to the war in Afghanistan.

A panel remembering the 63rd anniversary of the soviet victory over the nazi forces in 1945.

“USSR… Victory”.

The flag of Transdniestria. It is the same as the one used by the former Moldovan SSR.

The Tiraspol parliament and a statue of Lenin in front of it. It is prohibited to take pictures of the parliament, so I could not go nearer to get a better view.

The House of the Soviets.

The laureates for a contest.

The Dniester River that separates both worlds.

… and the bridge that crosses it.

Che Guevara and Vladimir Putin together.

Y Dmitri Medvedev, el nuevo presidente ruso.

And Dmitri Medvedev, the new Russian president.

Some objects were hidden behind this wall in 1967. In the year 2017, 50 years later, this wall will be destroyed and the hidden objects will be revealed. What do you think is hidden behind this wall?

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A water distributor. For 70 transdniestrian kopecks, you can have a glass of carbonated water…

No tour of Tiraspol is complete without buying some alcohol. Bottles of cognac and of other kinds of alcohols are from 5 to 10 times cheaper in Transdniestria than in Moldova (where the prices are already very low). On the picture you can see a range of prices between 17 and 60 Transdniestrian rubles (between 2 and 7$).

Typical Tirapol apartments.

A Russian soldier. Without the help of Russia, Transdniestria would not be able to keep their independence against Moldova. In Tiraspol you can see lots of Russian Soldiers. There are even offices of the Russian Army with the Russian flag flying on the roof!

The exchange rate of the Transdniestrian ruble against the American, European, Russian, Ukrainian an Moldovian currencies. I find it fascinating that Transdniestrian have created their own currency! But as Transdniestria is not recognized by any foreign country, their currency is not exchangeable anywhere else than in Transdniestria. So if you don’t want to be stuck with worthless money after your trip, better change all your transdniestrian rubles before leaving the country.

Petro station “Sheriff”…

Supermarket « Sheriff »… there is also a Sheriff Stadium. Sheriff is the trademark of a chain of business present all over Transdniestria. The owner of the chain is the president of the country himself, Smirnoff and his associates (in the government). It is said that Transdniestria is governed by mafia and that the president Smirnoff is the boss. His counsellors, ministers, deputies, etc are all his associates. Some of them are even wanted by Interpol, according to some sources… When Transdniestria opened up to the market economy, the government and, the president created the brand Sheriff. Today, it is ubiquitous in the breakaway republic.

This is what I saw in Transdniestria. On the surface, Tiraspol seemed to me very similar to Chisinau, except for the communist emblems that I could see all around Tiraspol. To me, Tiraspol did not look like a city besieged by the army. The soldiers who were walking on the streets were not even armed. Tiraspol is a very calm city. Would this be the calm before the storm? Nobody knows. But one thing is clear : status quo cannot remain for very long in Transdniestria. Smirnoff is the president of the breakaway republic since its independence 17 years ago. When he will step down or die or whatever, what is going to happen in there? Can Transdniestria remain isolated from the rest of the world, without international recognition? To all these fascinating questions we will have an answer… one day… or one year…